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mobile workstand free plans: how to make a
Mobile Workstand
Basic Description

watch the
animated intro
This simple workstand is both stable and mobile. It provides a great surface for cutting, routing, sanding, assembly etc. You can roll it around your workspace by simply tipping one end a few degrees to engage the wheels. In the resting position, the wheels are disengaged and this is the key to its stability. There are no obstructions on the underside of the worktop which allows for efficient clamping. These mobile workstands work very well in pairs, so after you finish your first one, you may want to build another!


step:       2                    



Instead of providing a cutlist for the entire project, we are going to break the project down into manageable steps. We have chosen this method not only for simplicity and clarity; using the actual dimensions required by your work is superior and more accurate than precutting all of the pieces and assembling them at once. You should consider the dimensions we provide to be close guidelines: your work will dictate the precise dimensions that you will need.

The worktop is a simple torsion box with a basic frame sandwiched by two identical panels. Click on the animation on the right. We will start by cutting three panels: two for the worktop and one for the shelf. It can be of various dimensions but we let our materials determine a suitable size. We used a 5/8" thick sheet of MDF which is 49 x 97"; note that some MDF and most plywood is 48 x 96" (1.2 x 2.4m).
panel cutting pattern



You can cut the panel into 6 identical pieces which will yield enough material for two workstands (see graphic at the right). Don't forget that your blade itself has a thickness when you are calculating the dimensions. We cut three pieces 16" wide by 49" long (40 x 120cm). After cutting the first piece we used it as a template to mark the second and third pieces: this ensures that all three will have the same dimensions. If you are using a table saw, of course, the fence will take care of this.

measure the location of the cutting guide before beginning the cut
If you don't have a table saw, or don't feel comfortable cutting such large panels with one, you can use a simple cutting guide and a circular saw. You can either purchase a guide made specifically for the purpose, or you can use a sturdy rectangular bar with a pair of small C-clamps. We used a 3/8 x 1" (1 x 3cm) aluminum bar. Make sure that whatever you use will not deflect horizontally when you are in the middle of the cut; after you have it clamped in place, check how rigid it is in the middle. Also don't forget to account for the distance between the saw blade and the outside of the saw's guide. Note the block of scrap to protect the underside of the panel from the clamp

you can cut the panels with a circular saw and a simple guide
After you have the guide clamped, make sure that the clamps will not interfere with the circular saw as you make the cut. It is also a good idea to sight down the cut line above and below the panel to ensure that nothing will be obstructing your cut (cord, sawhorse etc.). Before beginning such a long cut, we like to 'kiss' the piece with the circular saw (see picture at the right), then double-check the measurement from the tiny indentation. This way if you have made a mistake in setting up the cutting guide, you haven't wasted any wood, you can simply make the necessary readjustments.
close up of cutting guide and kiss



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