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mobile workstand free plans: how to make a
Mobile Workstand
Basic Description

watch the
animated intro
This simple workstand is both stable and mobile. It provides a great surface for cutting, routing, sanding, assembly etc. You can roll it around your workspace by simply tipping one end a few degrees to engage the wheels. In the resting position, the wheels are disengaged and this is the key to its stability. There are no obstructions on the underside of the worktop which allows for efficient clamping. These mobile workstands work very well in pairs, so after you finish your first one, you may want to build another!


step:         3                  



With the three panels cut, we can start on the frame for the worktop. We used kiln-dried 2" x 4" (4 x 8cm) lumber and made sure that the boards were true and free from checks. The worktop frame is simple: start with the two long sides which will be the same dimension as the length of the panels that you just cut: 49" (120cm) in our case. Plan out your cuts before proceeding (as shown in the printable accompaniment) to make sure that you will have enough wood. This usually isn't a problem with this particular project because there are several small pieces that you can get from scrap left over from the longer cuts.
screw layout for top panel of worktop
We like to attach the long frame members to one panel before working on the rest of the frame; this way we can measure the space between long frame members to determine precise dimensions for the crossmembers. Before fastening the panel to the long frame members, mark the hole locations. We made a line around the entire panel 3/4" (2cm) from the edge (this is approximately half the thickness of the frame that the panel will be attached to). Next, mark the centerline locations of the crossmembers. If you are using six crossmembers, your dimensions will look like the drawing at the right.
To attach the panels to the long frame members, clamp the two pieces together in the proper position, and using a countersinking bit, drill through the panel into the frame member. Clamping is critical here. Drive a 1 5/8" (4cm) coarse drywall screw to attach. If you have a limited number of clamps, make sure there is one adjacent to where you are predrilling and driving the screws. After you have several screws in and the pieces are sufficiently fastened you can omit the clamps for the remaining screw installations.
Repeat this process to attach the second long frame member to the top panel
clamping is critical when attaching the panels to the frame


◄ step 2   —   step 4►



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